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258 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
that will hid for it, and work it in conjunction with the
steam communication 011 the Hardanger Fiord ? If not,
let us form a Limited Liability.
On the way back, the boatman who rowed me across
the lake was eloquent in his account of the visit of the
King of Holland: how he gave five dollars for a bowl
of milk, two dollars to himself for rowing him across,
and a dollar each as " drikkepenge " (drink-money) to all
concerned.
The next morning I started with a boat and two
rowers for Utne; distant two Norsk miles. It was a
windy, squally morning, but the wind being aft, we
put up a sail, and the boat, a very small one, rushed
through the water during the squalls at a wondrous
pace. It was a very exciting sail; the boatman holding
the sheet in his hand, kept the sail square until the
bow of the boat was fairly buried in the water, as the
strength of the wind increased. The men told me that
such a boat, with its mast and sail, can be bought here
for five or six dollars.
On reaching the Utne station, I was told that if I
waited for an hour, I could have hot " mad:" that is, a
dinner. Fearing that such unusual luxury might corrupt
me, I told them that I could not wait, but would be glad
to take anything they had ready—expecting, of course,
some fladbröd and smüer. To my surprise, a
well-cooked grouse was brought in about ten minutes after,
with salad; and after it some gooseberry-tool, with
delicious cream. There were two polished mahogany chests
of drawers, besides other furniture, and a floor so clean
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