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CHAPTER VII.
The northern face of Europe — Its conformation contradicts the
hypothesis of a radial glaciation of Europe from the Pole southwards —
Arctic musquitoes — An explanation of their abundance —
Suggestions for the economic building of summer excursion steampackets —
Hammerfest again — Lapp courtship — Winter quarters of the fisher
Lapps — A German Mars and a Lappish Venus — Intermingling of
Lapps and Norwegians — Coast glaciers — Tromsö again —
Destruction of the Hôtel du Nord — Our embassy to the camp of the
Laplanders — Successful negotiations for a special reindeer gathering
and performance — We revisit the camp — Sleeping beauties —
Astonishing an old friend — Primitive machinery for spinning
reindeer tendons — We breakfast en famille in the Lapp hut —
Driving the deer — Illusions relative to reindeer — Lassoing,
punching, and milking the deer — A beautiful Lapp baby — The origin
of the physical hardihood of the Lapps — Social status of Lapp
women.
We return to Hammerfest by the same route,
admiring again the craggy precipices of the majestic
headlands that form the characteristic feature of
the northern face of Europe, and stand like giant
sentinels guarding its outposts against the billowy
charges of the Arctic Ocean. The general aspect
of this coast refutes the idea, expounded by some
geologists, though by no means generally received,
that, during the great ice age, a great ice sheet
proceeded radially from the north polar regions,
and overswept Scandinavia and the rest of northern
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