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these pestilential little beasts. Until somebody
invents a substitute for swallows, inland excursions
hereabouts, however interesting otherwise, cannot
be made enjoyable.
Reach Hammerfest on 1st August in a state of
mild fever, from want of sleep. The Haakon
Adelstein, although newly built at Newcastle, is
constructed on a very bad principle. In order to
exaggerate the dimensions and appearance of the
saloon, the sleeping place for the male passengers is
a black bole under the saloon, 24 feet by 18, and 61/2
feet high, with about twenty berths, and its floor 3
or 4 feet below the water line. The only practically
available ventilation is by a nine-inch brass pipe,
which passes through the saloon and opens
trumpet-mouthed on deck. There are ports over the upper
berths, but these cannot be opened as the sea
splashes into them. Some American passengers
and myself had quite a contest respecting these
ports, which we surreptitiously opened, and thereby
partially inundated the cabin. They were then
forcibly screwed up, and the air was so bad that
every night, after about two hours’ feverish sleep,
I was compelled to go on deck. The continuous
daylight of course increased the difficulty of
sleeping, and therefore I was very glad to spend six or
seven hours of our sojourn at Hammerfest on
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