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markings, and where they have not been
obliterated by subsequent atmospheric weathering.
August 4th and 5th.—We return by a somewhat
different route, not crossing to the Lofodens. The
weather still very bad, cold, misty, and wet. The
stuffy air of the gentlemen’s cabin led to much
dissipation. The Norwegian and German
passengers slept well enough, and seemed to care very
little about the composition of the atmosphere
they breathed, provided it was warm. The English
and Americans grumbled loudly, and positively
rebelled to the extent of forsaking their berths,
and spending a large part of the night in the
smoking saloon on deck. Among them was one
of the American confederate generals, who had
been engaged throughout the civil war, a typical
specimen of the Southerner, a curious compound of
refinement, chivalry, courtesy, and despotic
selfishness. Like most of the Southern men I have met,
he was very intelligent and a most agreeable
companion. I was deeply interested with his
account of the war and its results. It is only by
learning some of the details of such actual
experience that one can form any adequate idea of the
intense bitterness of this struggle. There were
other Americans from the South on board, and
some from the Northern States. I was informed
by both that the discussion of political subjects
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