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220 WITH THE GERMAN ARMIES IN THE WEST
it to the description of subsequent visits to Antwerp to dwell
more fully on the most interesting points.
Before we knew where we were, the great city of Brussels,
whose streets at this early hour were silent and empty, had
been left behind and we were out in the open country ; here
and there a house or a village, a clump of trees or a haystack,
would peep out of the fog still struggling against the morning
sunlight. Through a glorious old gateway between two round
turrets we tear at the same reckless pace into Malines, or, in
German, Mecheln, the seat of the Archbishop and famous for
its magnificent cathedral, which traces its history to the latter
part of the thirteenth century and whose mighty towers,
dating from 1452, had been intended originally to surpass in
height all other cathedral towers of Christendom. Yet the
height of ninety-seven metres, at which the builders stopped,
suffices to impress the beholder. On misty days such as this
the cathedral is not visible until one is upon it, but when the
air is clear it becomes a landmark for miles around. The tower
clock, with its face measuring thirteen and a half metres in
diameter, has ceased to mark the fleeting hour. The Germans
had found that this point of vantage had been used for observ-
ing their artillery positions and the effect of the defenders’
fire, hence the tower was bombarded, an adventure which did
not suit the sober habits of the clock.
Presently we come to the south portal beneath the giant
windows, through the lower part of which a shell has made its
way into the church. A couple of projectiles have struck
between the window and the pillars of the south aisle. From
the north the cathedral has also been fired upon, but this
damage was done by the retreating Belgian troops, who were
anxious to prevent the Germans from reaping the desired
benefits of the capture of the city.
From the outside the damage does not seem to be extensive,
as my photograph shows. It can easily be repaired. But we
have now no time to give to the interior of the cathedral, we
merely cast a hasty glance at the destruction which the shells
have wrought. Blocks and chips of fallen stone lie everywhere.
A layer of limestone dust covers the archiepiscopal tombs.
But the statues of the Apostles, which adorn the columns
between the aisles, are untouched, and the precious pictures of
van Dyck, Verhaghen and other masters had been saved before
the bombardment began. Wondrous silvery tones descend to
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