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FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO BATUM 47
tails fluttering, while the grave Semites, putting on their
most solemn mien, stepped in Indian file down the gangway
and into the boat below, which was rising and falling in such
a lively fashion on the swell that several fell into the water.
One felt particularly sorry for an unfortunate sick woman
who had to be carried down on a man’s back ; there was very
nearly a catastrophe, but her bearer managed at the last moment
to secure a safe foothold in the boat without falling overboard.
Wc were to remain here the whole day and leave in the
evening, so as not to arrive at Batum at night ; the voyage
only takes ten hours. Accordingly wc got a boat and went
ashore. Wc were lying at anchor off the east ånd newest
part of the town, as there is a bay there which affords a little
shelter from westerly winds, and also a custom-house on the
promontory, which is surmounted by a little fort. On its
southern side this part of the town is shut in by a mountain,
250 metres high, which the Turks call 802 Tepe, or the
grey cliff, flat-topped and with steep slopes facing the town.
The Greeks called it Mount Mithrios, because on the top of
it there was a statue of Mithras, the Indian and Iranian sun
god, whose cult was widespread during the first centuries a.d.
On landing at the custom-house our passports were tåken
by the Turkish customs officials, together with our cameras,
because there are fortifications which must not be photo
graphed. The town nestles picturesquely on the slopes
surrounding the bay. There are small gardens everywhere
among the houses, with vegetables, mulberry-trees, cypresses,
laurels, figs, walnuts, vines, etc. One of the most important
exports is said to be hazel-nuts, and the figs of Trebizond are
also a well-known commodity.
After proceeding some way up the narrow, steep streets
wc met a young man who stopped and asked in English
whether I was Dr. N. ; on my answering that I was, he
informed me that the British consul wished to place himself
at our disposal if wc needed any help. I thanked him and
said I would call on the consul a little later.
On the way up wc passed several big houses which
appeared to be standing empty. On one of them wc saw a
Greek inscription, and surmised that it was a deserted Greek
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