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56 ARMENIA AND THE NEAR EAST
of delicious caviare, smoked sturgeon, and other dainties,
accompanied by vodka ; then boiled sturgeon, chicken, and
many other dishes, with delectable Caucasian wine. Not
withstanding prohibition in the Soviet republics, wine has
always been drunk in Transcaucasia—even by Muhammedans ;
now, however, the Soviet Government in Moscow has not
only abolished the prohibition on spirits, but has set up a
State monopoly for their manufacture and sale, as in pre-war
days ; vodka is on sale everywhere, much to the advantage
of the Treasury, no doubt, if less to the advantage of the
Pe°Ple-
The courteous president of the local republic took me
in to lunch. He talked French fluently, and was very
entertaining. Like most of the people here he was a Moslem.
He began the speech-making by giving us a fresh welcome,
outlining with enthusiasm all that they expected of our visit
to the Transcaucasian Soviet Republics. The ball was now
rolling, and one speech after another followed, chiefly in
Russian. It was a pity we could only follow what was said
in a translation, as the flow of eloquence seemed remarkable.
This was our first experience of Caucasian hospitality, which
is famous.
After lunch we returned to our railway carriage. While
I sat writing in my compartment the attendant brought me
a beautiful bouquet from a lady. I wanted to go and thank
her at once ; but she had left immediately, he said, and it
was too late to stop her. There was no nåme, only a verbal
message that she had read my book and sent me these flowers.
Her lovely roses brightened up my compartment for several
days ; let me take this opportunity to convey my grateful
thanks to the beautiful unknown.
Batum and the whole country round was Christian for
centuries, and formed part of Georgia when the latter was a
united kingdom. Relics of those days are still to be found
in the neighbourhood. At a few kilometres distance from
the town there are some ruins called Zamok Tamari, i.e.
Thamara’s castle, supposed to have been erected by the Queen
of Georgia. There are also ruins of old churches in several
places. In the sixteenth century the country was tåken by
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