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80 ARMENIA AND THE NEAR EAST
country, and no other district enshrines so many memories
of its earliest history. At this place, where the valleys of the
Kura and the Aragva meet, the main routes meet also ; from
the south-east, coming from the Caspian Sea and Persia,
from the north, coming from the pass through the Caucasus
and the Saguramo Valley, and from the west, coming from
the Black Sea, Colchis and Imeretia ; naturally, therefore, it
was an important hub of traffic and trade, and a centre of
culture, from very remote times. There are many caves
which were once inhabited in the distant past, and subse
quently acquired a religious significance. Here, on holy
hills and in holy groves, were the places of sacrifice and shrines
of heathenism thousands of years ago ; here resided the
ancient kings of Georgia ; here Christianity was first*con
fessed and the national Christian temple, Mtskhetha cathedral,
erected ; and here, for hundreds of years, lived the Katholikos
of the Georgian Church.
The fine cathedral still towers high above all the low
groups of houses. Wc stopped by a gate which might well
have been the entrance to a fortress. The church is surrounded
by a high wall with loopholes and massive round and square
bastions, looking like the strongly fortified castle of a mediæval
knight. No doubt this protection was extremely necessary,
as I have said, on account of the frequent attacks of marauders
and the interminable wars. It aptly symbolizes the history
of this people. The peaceful centre of its intellectual life
had to be guarded by strong fortifications ; and here, if any
where, even the labours of peace had always to be carried on
with one’s sword ready to hand. Within these walls, too, the
townsfolk found shelter in times of danger.
Wc rang a bell, and the gate was opened. Wc stepped into
a wide square, in the middle of which rose the cathedral with
its arches and gables and its high dome-tower, while to the
left of us, nestling against the wall, was the bishop’s house.
The bishop himself advanced in dignified fashion to meet us
a tall stately man, more than six feet high, with handsome
regular features, and a long, glossy, coal-black beard, wearing
a black gown that reached to his feet, and a tall black mitre.
Accompanied by a monk in a cowl and another official of the
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