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206 ARMENIA AND THE NEAR EAST
been a delightful refuge from the sweltering summer heat ; but
now its surroundings were quite bare. The thousands of
refugees who sought shelter here during the Turkish attack
in the last war had cut down all the trees for fuel, as they
nearly froze to death in the winter—like the refugees in other
places who, as I have mentioned elsewhere, burned up all the
woodwork in the roofs and floors of the houses. New trees
have now been planted around this lake, but it will be long
before they are as shady and beautiful as their predecessors.
Next wc were given a very welcome invitation to lunch in
the library. This is a large new building, close to the cathedral
square, which was completed a few years ago. Here wc were
most cordially received by the civil authorities, and the leading
citizens were present to act as our hosts. As usual in this
hospitable land there was a sumptuous spread, with all kinds
of delicacies.
After lunch wc were shown the valuable collections in the
library, especially the old Armenian manuscripts, including
several early Gospels. Many of these manuscripts were
handsomely illuminated with richly coloured miniatures. A
particularly eminent artist was the painter Thoros (i.e. Theo
dore) Roslin of Mush (and Cilicia) in the thirteenth century,
many of whose little pictures were quite masterpieces.
After seeing these priceless treasures wc tore ourselves
away from this fine library, where wc felt inclined to stay on
and study. Wc then walked across the big square to the
cathedral. In front of this wc were met by the senior bishop,
accompanied by several other bishops. In long black gown
and with a pointed hood over his head, a stately figure, grave,
sagacious-looking, and with a flowing grey beard, he advanced
in dignified fashion to meet us, welcoming us cordially in
fluent German. He informed us that he would like to show
us round the church.
Before entering, however, it may be appropriate to say a
few words about the history of this remarkable building. By
tradition it is now closely bound up with the introduction of
Christianity into the country by St. Gregory the Illuminator
and King Trdat (Tiridates) at the end of the third century ;
it is said to stand on the spot where Gregory saw a vision
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