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NEW PLANS FOR IRRIGATION 223
As soon as I realized what was in the wind I decided that
there was danger ahead and that I must be careful !
First \ve went through several rooms with big vats in
them ; these vats contained brandy, and \ve were offered
some. Cautiously I sipped just enough to taste ; yes, it was
certainly excellent. Then they brought some of another
quality. Better still. But after that they offered us some
extra fine old brandy ; and it needed a good deal of self-control
only to sip that. Wc went on through a great many rooms
where the wine was fermenting or in storage, and looked at
the enormous vats. Then there were any number of samples
of Armenian wines, white and red. All were good, but some,
especially one old red wine, wrere so first-rate that it was
not at all easy only to put one’s lips to the glass. Moreover,
our healths were drunk, and wc had to return the compliment.
After that came the sherry, which was very fine, and a madeira
which was better, and a port which, if possible, was better
still ; it would seem that the rich grapes of the country are
specially suitable for making these wines. Last of all came
a Muscatel, and I thought I had never tasted a more luscious
wine. This time it was more than a sip !
It seemed strange to come up from this cool cellar, with all
its rich treasures, and return to everyday realities under the
scorching midday sun.
In the evening the Government gave a delightful entertain
ment in our honour in the Sirdar Garden, on the other side
of the Zanga gorge, opposite the fortress of Erivan. This
garden originally belonged to the Persian sirdar who, during
the Persian domination of the country before 1827, was
satrap or governor of the province, with his residence in the
fortress (cf. p. 153). A glorious garden it was—the Persians
are experts in gardening and artificial irrigation. After the
Russian conquest this, Uke other gardens, came into private
hands ; and later, after the Soviet revolution, it was tåken
over by the Government and joined on to the neighbouring
garden to form a big establishment which is run for the
account of the Government. Wc were entertained in the
former owner’s house. He had been a rich Armenian who,
with his family, had resided in winter at Odessa and in summer
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