- Project Runeberg -  Through Norway with a Knapsack /
ix

(1859) [MARC] Author: W. Mattieu Williams
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CONTENTS.

i x

Capital of the Fjeld Lapp—The Thief Mountain—Wine in
the far north—The great meridian line from the Danube to
the Arctic Ocean—A cruel defeat and
humiliation—Improvement in travelling Englishmen—Folly of ostentatious
lavish-ness—The return journey—Glaciers of the Nus Fiord—A
public breakfast at Tromsö.......117

Chapter VIII.

A second visit to the Lapp encampment—Moral and religious
savages—Condition of the Laplanders a proof of the high
character of the Norwegians—Snow and sunshine—The
English language a dialect of the Scandinavian—Few, if any,
English words derived from the German—When to see Arctic
Norway at its best—Bodö—The Threnen Islands—The ships
of the old Sea-kings—Curious change in the tone and colour
of the light at midnight—Etiquette of the dinner-table in
Norway—Post-offices—The Leer Foss.....134

Chapter IX.

On foot again—The pedestrian’s advantages—Terraced valleys
again—Importance of eggs to the tourist—How to converse
in a language you do not understand—The
Orkedal—Probable centre of the great Scandinavian upheaval—Another
explanation of the Torghatten tunnel—Fly-catchers—Tariff
of refreshment for man and beast—A
battle-field—Physiognomy of the Norwegians—Mercenary tenderness of the
Sur-rendal cows—Norwegian beds and sheep-skin coverlids—I
succeed in living within my income at the Quamen Station—
The beard provocative of refinement—Female despotism . 151

Chapter X.

The rich man’s debt of courtesy to the poor man—Boating on
the fiords—A storm—Luxurious quarters—Haymaking—An
attempt at extortion—Outside piety and its usual
accompaniments—The farmers’ carts — A startled nightingale—The
Norwegian Ranz de vaches—A corner of the earth unvisited
by Englishmen—The Romsdals Fiord—Veblungsnaesset—
Preparations for royalty—The glories of the Romsdal—The
Mongefoss—Model glaciers and avalanches—The traces of
ancient glaciers and avalanches probably confounded by
geologists..........170

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