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CONTENTS.
page
Chapter XI.
" Gammel Ost" a new sensation for epicures—A royal cortege—
Lost on the fjeld—False alarm—The " Cock of the
mountain "—Risks of solitary mountaineering—Out for the night
—Hard work on an empty stomach—Difficulty, delusion, and
disappointment—Semi-starvation and its effects—The pastor
of Lom—The social position and influence of the Norwegian
clergy—The "pocket-pistol" a dangerous weapon . .191
Chapter XII.
A proud Norwegian beauty—Household charity a substitute for
poor-rates in Norway—The good people at Mork—The family
big box of the Norwegian farmer—The Lia Vand—Former
extent of the Nord Fiords glacier—Saeter life—A damsel at
bay—Collecting of the goats and cows—Cheese-making—The
supremacy of woman aud the inferiority of the male sex at
the saeter—The head of the valley and the
snow-fields—Difficulty in selecting the pass—Climbing powers of Norwegian
horses—The Stiggevand and ice cascades of the Justedals
Sneefond—Grand and desolate scenery—Head of the Justedal
—Evils of dining.........209
Chapter XIII.
The Trangedal and Lodal Glaciers—Outline of the natural
history of avalanches and glaciers—Advance and recession of
the Justedal Glaciers—The "Bear’s Path" Glacier —
Fermented milk—A human candlestick—An
interior—Scandinavian fleas—Scenery of the Justedal—More starvation—The
Nygaard and Krondal Glaciers—Luxurious quarters and
Englishmen—How to enjoy dissipation—Centre ornament for
a dinner-table—An evening concert in Norway—The trail of
the travelling snob—Drunkenness and extortion—A mutinous
boat’s crew—A walk in the dark—Startling the natives with
portable lightning—Domestic revelations .... 226
Chapter XIV.
The Naero Fiord—Gudvangen and the Naerodal—Out for the
night again — Mountains safer than plains for out-of-door
sleeping—Returning from church by water—Sunday costume
—A jolly boatman—Night on the fiord—The Voring Foss—
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