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THE ABORIGINES OF BRITAIN.
29
their ideal of manly beauty. The young Romans of
our day, who risk their souls and do dreadful penances
for visiting the English church outside the Porta del
Popolo, go there to enjoy the felicity of breaking their
hearts for the most flaxen-haired, grey-eyed
Scandinavian specimens of English beauty: they scarcely look
at the flashing, dark-eyed beauties whom the
light-haired Englishmen admire. This is no matter of mere
habit, but of original human instinct, that was the same
in ancient as in modern Rome: had the British
captives been dark-haired, black-eyed Celts, the great
Gregorian pun would never have been uttered.
The first drunken man I have yet seen in Norway was
on board the steamer to-day. I am told that great
improvement is taking place in this respect; drunkenness,
which was once rather prevalent, is now almost extinct
in Norway.
Another gorgeous northern sunset; the combined
evening and morning effects were not visible on account
of the hills, but the lighting up of the hills themselves
Avas most magnificent.
I landed near Lillehammer, and walked up the hill
to Hammer’s hotel. Meeting the steward on the way,
who introduced me to his friend Mr. Fk. Hammer,
we supped together. The hotel, built of wood, is a
large one, of considerable pretensions as to style and
ornament; the handsome lace curtains at the windows,
and a magnificent door-mat of fir and juniper branches,
are its most striking features. This fir-branch
doormat is peculiarly effective, and its odour very agreeable
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