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54 tiikougii norway with a knapsack.
several kinds of bread and pancakes, and concluded
luxuriously with café noir, arm-chair, and slippers.
The night is perceptibly lighter here than at
Christiania, and very cold.
At Jerkin I had a most extravagant southern
breakfast of coffee, fried eggs, dried salmon, a kind of
pol-pette, that Pietro, the renowned waiter of the Lepre
in Komc, would be proud of serving, and some of
those yellow, cross-bar, wafer-like cakes that are cooked
by squeezing batter in a hot iron mould, and then
sprinkled with white sugar from a pepper-box; such
as are sold in large quantities on Sundays at the
barriere wineshops of Paris, and are made at the penny
ice establishment in Hungerford Market.
The kitchen at Jerkin is justly celebrated. It is a
large wooden hall, a log saloon, whose rich brown
smoke-tinted timbers and its blazing fire, where
something is always frying, forms a most
enjoyable contrast with the bleak waste outside. Every
experienced tourist of good taste prefers to do all
his feeding in this kitchen, and leaves the fine room
over the way to the inexperienced visitors. It is
exceedingly difficult to leave off eating in such a
place, prepared as the appetite is by such an
atmosphere, and incited continuously by the hostess, whose
sole happiness evidently consists in feeding people.
She oscillates perpetually between the fire and the
guests, aided by a couple of sweet satellites, the
most rosy-clieeked of kitchen-maids. Never a driver
leaves the door, but the black bottle is brought
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