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122 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
These lakes of the Loffodens resemble the Lake of
Lucerne in its wildest parts, but they are still grander;
for though the mountains are not so high, they are
much more rugged, harsh, and savage, and the great
snow patches filling the hollows at the foot of each of
the spiky pyramids, add vastly to their sublimity. The
wailing and screaming of the sea-fowl among the bare
granite crags and right overhead, as they were startled
by the steamer rounding the abrupt bends and breaking
suddenly upon their solitudes, was in fine harmony with
the wild desolation of the whole scene, and heightened
its effect prodigiously.
Towards midnight a mist came gradually down, first
hiding the peaks and magnifying the visible sides of
the hills, then hanging about the masthead, and finally
for a short time enveloping us altogether. It broke as
we approached a station; or it may be that we sailed
through it. The effect was glorious. Out of the misty
chaos there suddenly started one of the grandest clusters
of these rugged granite peaks. The vessel was near to
the shore when the cloudy curtain rose, and the
mountains sprang upon us instantaneously like a range of
phantoms, and by the suddenness of their apparition
seemed quite close overhead and almost falling on
us. The hemisphere of gray mist that for a while
had bounded our vision, reddened as we reached
its boundaries, and all the panorama which its
opening disclosed was glowing in the ruddy glories of
these incomparable midnights of the north. I had sat
up 011 deck all the night before, and only went to bed
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