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164 THROUGH NORWAY WITII A KNAPSACK.
of the brain; all characteristics of the best type of
the northmen. There was less uniformity of
physiognomy 011 the way from Christiania to Trondhjem
than in these valleys, and still less among those who
came 011 board the packet ; where, indeed, the variety
was very considerable. I observed there on the coast
a considerable number of men of a very remarkable
type, having extremely large and low heads, indicating
great intellectual and animal energy, but only moderate
controlling moral power. Such men go 011 well when
they have pretty much their own way, and are not
surrounded with very strong temptations, but are terrible
when thwarted or tempted to evil enterprise: they are
like the grizzly bear, a heavy quiet beast when
undisturbed, but horribly ferocious if wounded. I fancied
that these might be the descendants of the fierce
sea-kings, to whom danger was delight, and who helped
themselves so freely to whatever was left near the coast
by any of the other inhabitants of Europe.
Here in the Orkedal and Surrendal, not one of these
bull-headed men is visible; none but the mild,
high-lieadcd family.
The horses in the Orkedal and Surrendal are very
fine animals, larger than those of the Guldbrandsdal and
Dovre Fjeld. The cows are remarkably inquisitive; they
followed me along the road, peeped into my knapsack
and pockets, and licked my shoulders and back. The
horses exhibited a similar docility. This tameness and
absence of fear among the cattle is a safe indication of
a kindly disposition of the people.
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