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CHAPTER X.
The rich man’s debt of courtesy to the poor man—Boating on the
fiords — A storm — Luxurious quarters — Haymaking — An
attempt at extortion—Outside piety and its usual
accompaniments—The farmers’ carts—A startled nightingale—The
Norwegian JRanz de vaches—A corner of the earth unvisited by
Englishmen — The Romsdals
Fiord—Veblungsnaesset—Preparations for royalty—The glories of the Romsdal—The Mongefoss
—Model glaciers and avalanches—The traces of ancient glaciers
and avalanches probably confounded by geologists.
At Surrendalsöeren 1 tasted some of the troubles to
which vulgar tourists are exposed, for this being the port
station of the fiord, my pedestrian independence ceased,
and I had to go up and down, begging and waiting
for a boat and a couple of boatmen; for these, like
hotel-keepers and all other people in Norway whose services
are to be paid for, seem to make a principle of convincing
you that the obligation is on the side of the person
receiving the services, not of him who receives the wages:
and there can be no doubt they are in the right in most
cases, especially where the employer is much richer than
the servant.
Thus, let us suppose the case of a professional man
who has an income of 1,000/. a year, or say 3/. per day;
which is about 6s. per hour for a working day of ten
hours: he employs a labourer, and pays him 6s. for two
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