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FIRST SIGHT OF AN ENGLISHMAN. 179
distance to examine me at full length, then fetched
lier husband and two children to look at the " Engelsk;"
and they examined my hat, boots, and knapsack, with
intense interest. It is really refreshing to find a corner
of the earth unvisited by Englishmen. I doubt whether
even a Scotchman has been here within the memory
of a generation; for the very few visitors who come
down the Surrendal and over to the Fanne Fiord,
all go, of course, to Molde, the great town of the
district, and proceed from thence to the Romsdal. I
am 110 lover of great towns, and usually skip tlieni,
unless-Murray is imperatively emphatic upon their
lions.
The little promontory I had just crossed is " nobody’s
way to nowhere." With the host and his son, I rowed
across the fiord to Alfarnes. The boat was smaller and
slighter than any I have been in on the fiords before,
and a squall arose, more vigorous than the one I before
experienced. The water did come over the sloping
bulwark this time, and the little boy, who pulled bravely
for above anj hour, began to cry with fear; not,
however, until after catching a dozen or so of "crabs,"
and tumbling f each time over the seat. It is very
difficult to row amongst these sharp short waves, and I
found my hands severely blistered and bleeding at the
journey’s end. The poor man only demanded 16
skillings for his two or three hours’ hard work, and the
boat had to be taken back again. In such a case, the
value of the small stock of fish-hooks, artificial flies,
needles, steel pens, and cases I had brought with me,
n 2
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