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four weather-beaten trees were shrinking from the
wind, and the grass grew so sparingly that I could
not avoid thinking Dr. Johnson’s hyperbolical assertion
that "the man merited well of his country who
made a few blades of grass grow where they never
grew before," might here have been uttered with strict
propriety. The steeple likewise towered aloft, for
what is a church, even amongst the Lutherans, without
a steeple? But to prevent mischief in such an exposed
situation, it is wisely placed on a rock at some distance
not to endanger the roof of the church.
Rambling about, I saw the door open, and entered,
when to my great surprise I found the clergyman
reading prayers, with only the clerk attending. I
instantly thought of Swift’s "Dearly beloved Roger,"
but on inquiry I learnt that some one had died that
morning, and in Sweden it is customary to pray for
the dead.
The sun, who I suspected never dared to shine,
began now to convince me that he came forth only
to torment; for though the wind was still cutting,
the rocks became intolerably warm under my feet,
whilst the herring effluvia, which I before found so
very offensive, once more assailed me. I hastened
back to the house of a merchant, the little sovereign
of the place, because he was by far the richest,
though not the mayor.
Here we were most hospitably received, and
introduced to a very fine and numerous family. I have
before mentioned to you the lilies of the north, I
might have added, water lilies, for the complexion of
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