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PEXCIL SKETCHES IN ROME. 283
and without opposition all into her embrace : Jews and
proselytes, Greeks and Arabians. If the traveller, as he
has the baths of Diocletian directly before him, will peep
inside of their ruined walls, he will find the beautiful
church of Santa Maria degli Angeli and the hundred pil-
lars of the Carthusian cloister still standing unmoved, as
a pledge that this, and all that he found worthy of study,
love and admiration in glorious Rome, has in no wise suf-
fered by the change that has taken place. Quite the con-
trary : he will find the memories of ancient greatness more
numerous and more instructive than ever, thanks to the
continued excavations. But the Carthusian monks who
were domiciled next to Maria degli Angeli—those are
now gone. The Italian government has suppressed a
number of convents ; and no one whose brain has not
been twisted by maudlin romantic sentimentality, can
do otherwise than congratulate society, that these strong-
holds of darkness have been broken up. Yet I will not
deny that I would like to allow the friendly Franciscans
of San Bonaventura up on the Palatine, whose guest I
was one day during the Carnival, to remain until their
dying day in their little cloister, and enjoy their siesta
in the pleasant colonnade that opens upon their garden,
with its lofty palms and beautiful view. And the monks
of Sant’ Onofrio. too ! Long before I came to Rome,
had I heard mention of the pleasant Hieronymites of the
convent on the steep slope of Janiculus, as the only lib-
eral Christian monks in the whole Catholic world. Think,
once : near as they lived to the Vatican, this neighborhood
could not infect them with belief in the papal infallibility,
which they denied under the very nose of the Vatican
oecumenical council ! And when I now stood within
the walls of Sant’ Onofrio, and found that the pious
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