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CHAPTER XIII.
Molde — Fruit trees in the High Street — Inconvenience of private
carrioles — Variations of the character of hotels and stations —
Captain Dahl — The Storfjord, the Slyngsfjord, the Sunelvsfjord,
and the Nordalsfjord — Sentinel whales — Eagle-nest farms —
Tethered children — Probable origin of these farms — Destructive
rock falls — Decent avalanche tracks — St. Olaf’s serpent — The
Muldals Foss — An overhead wire railway — Hellesylt — The
Geirangerfjord — Phlegmatic waterfalls — The Seven Sisters —
St. Olaf’s head and pulpit — Start upon our roughest journey —
Dangerous driving — The Horningdals Vand — Great depth of the
lakes and inland fjords — Faleidet station and high feeding —
A row across the Indvikfjord — “Modes de Paris” in Norway. Page 260
CHAPTER XIV.
One of the old Norwegian roads — A diplomatic boatman —
“Tilsegelse” — Blundering tourists — Posting charges — The “dagbog”
— Obligations of the tourist to the station-keepers — A long stormy
row on the Bredhjem’s Vand — Getting wet and being wet — A
Valley of Desolation — The most effective of all agricultural machines
— The Jolster Vand — Black lakes — The colour of water — An
explanation of this — Bituminous matter suspended in bog-waters,
and the carbon particles upon which its colour depends — The Ulda
Foss — Our condition at Nedre Vasenden — The efficiency of the
Swedish stove — Bracing influence of northern air — Drive to
Sande .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 280
CHAPTER XV.
Luxury at Sande — The fruit trees of Sande and other parts of Norway
— Probable cause of their luxuriance — Fallacies of the sparrow
worshippers — Sparrows do not feed on caterpillars, nor tigers on
baked potatoes — Hotel books for tourists’ “remarks” — The highest
of the mountains near Sande — Curious structure of snow — Trail
of wild reindeer — Our bill at Sande — Drinking wine “for the
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