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At 5 p.m. we reach Vardö, a town of some
importance in these latitudes. It is on an island of
the same name, and has about 1200 inhabitants.
The chief occupation of these people is plainly
indicated by the market gardens which cover a
large area surrounding the town, and constitute a
characteristic feature of its suburban scenery.
These market gardens of the Arctic regions are
very different from those of the temperate zones,
their produce being “stokfisk” or stockfish, i. e.
codfish, which are dried in the sun by hanging
them in pairs across long sticks (stok is the Norsk
for a stick), which sticks are supported horizontally
on frames. Where there is no soil into which the
supports for the frames can be thrust, as on the
Lofodens, the fish are dried by spreading them out
on the bare rocks. These are called “klipfisk,”
from klippe, a rock.
After drying, they are stored in wooden
buildings, that constitute a prominent feature of all
the Arctic towns and stations of the coast. They
correspond to the “storhaus” of the Norwegian
farmer, are built close to the water’s edge, some on
piles and with a wooden platform or pier in front,
from which the dried fish are shipped on board
the “yechts ” or local coasting craft which carry
them to Bergen, where they are reshipped for the
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