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road in a strange country, but were all i
spirits nevertheless, and much amused at the boy’s
pantomimic description of my bolding on and
running behind the arbeitkjaerre.
In reference to the surly man at Reien, I should
add that just before starting, i. e. after I agreed to
pay the dollar, he melted considerably, attempted
to smile, but it was a ghastly convulsive failure;
and then begged me to inspect his bedrooms, which
rather surprised me after what I had heard of the
dirt and the fleas of this establishment.
They were newly furnished, recently scrubbed,
much varnished and decorated, with a considerable
acreage of white lace curtains, but they appeared
very desolate nevertheless. It was evident that
nobody had used them, their obviously dyspeptic
proprietor holding the unfortunate position of the
proverbial dog with a bad name; and it was also
evident that his constitutional sourness was further
acidified by this unrequited effort. He dolefully
regarded all tourists as insatiably exacting and
inconsistent grumblers, who slept in his house and
abused it while it was snug and dirty, and now
refuse to enter it after he has sunk all his capital
in bed furniture, curtains, varnish, and soap.
Though very savage with him, I could not
repress a touch of pity when he pointed to those
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