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58 TRAVELS
feafons travelling becomes almoft impoffible, and the capital as
well as other towns, are fo clogged and blocked up with mud and
dirt, that you can fcarcely move from one place to another. It
is for this reafon that the Swedes fo generally wear outer fhoes,
called galoches, which are very ufeful and neceflary for the pre-
fervation of health, by keeping the feet from wet. At this feafon
a carriage of one’s own becomes indifpenfably neceffary ; for the
hackney coaches of Stockholm are fo filthy as not to be endured
by any lady, or almoft any gentleman.
It is not unnatural to fuppofe, that in the maida of a Swedith
winter an Italian would run a rifk of perifhing through cold;
but this is by no means the cafe. I was at Stockholm all the
winter of 1799, when the cold was at or below twenty-five de-
grees of the thermometer of Celfius; and I can declare with ©
perfect truth, that I fuffered much lefs from the feverity of the
weather than I have fometimes done in Italy. Ifthe cold in
thofe eliaaates be great, the means of warding off its effects ne
-proportionably great. The ftoves in Sweden are the moft ingeni-
oufly contrived for heating a chamber, and keeping it warm with
a very {mall quantity of fuel, of any in Europe. They are rather
dangerous, it is true, if entrufted to ftrangers, who do not know
how to manage them, and who, by fhutting up the vent at an
improper time, may occafion too great an expenditure of vatal jair.
But the Swedes know fo exactly the moment when it is fit to
clofe the air-hole, that there is fcarcely an inftance of any acci-
dent happening from the ufe of ftoves in Sweden. They are in
general
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