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68 TRAVELS
ing in this refpect, and, like the French, eat of every thing that
comes before them: and although the different difhes do not feem.
to harmonize together, yet fuch is the force of habit, that the
guests apparently find no inconvenience from the moft oppofite
mixtures. Anchovies, herrings, onions, eggs, paftry, often meet
together on the fame plate, and are fwallowed promifcuoufly.
The fweet is aflociated with the four, muftard with fugar, con-
fectionaries with falt meat or falt fifh; in fhort, eatables are in-
termingled with a poetical licence, that fets the precept of Ho-
race at defiance—
Sed non ut placidis coeant immitia.
An Italian is not very much at a lofs at thefe feafts; but an Eng-
lifhman finds himfelf quite uncomfortable and out of his element:
he fees no wine drank either with the ladies or the gentlemen
during dinner; but muft take it himfelf in a folitary manner: he is
often obliged to wait for hours before he can help himfelf to what
he prefers to eat, and when the meat arrives, he generally thinks
it not dreffed plain enough, but difagreeable from the quantity of
fpices with which it is feafoned. After dinner the ladies do not
leave him to his bottle; he is expected to adjourn immediately with
them to the drawing-room, where the company, after thanking
the mafter and miftrefs of the houfe with a polite or rather cere-
monious bow for their good cheer, are regaled with tea and coffee.
I have not entered into a circumftantial defcription of thefe long
dinners, but only given the general outline, that I might not in-
Hict upon my readers that end, which I confefs I have myfelf
fometimes
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