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372 | TRAVELS
in the water, that it came fometimes into. the boat; a circum-
{tance which was by no means pleafant to voyagers who had fo
recently changed their mode of travelling, and who were better
acquainted with the dangers of land than water. Here we are
then, entered into a country where all communication by land is
precluded ; no more roads, nor horfes, nor carriages of any kind ;
in a country where you may travel about four hundred miles
without ever feeing either a fingle horfe, or any road.
Kaulimpe is the firft village on the left bank of the river, where
we changed our boat. We found here a /aw-pata, or palifade for
catching falmon. ‘The people there had caught, in the courfe of
the day, to the amount of three hundred pounds weight of that
fith. We bought one of the largeft of their falmon, and learned
for the firft time to eat it raw. It is cut into flices tranf{verfely and
put in falt ; when faited, it is left ina wooden difh with a little
water, and after three days this raw falmon 1s delicious eating.
It is a favourite difh with the firft nobility of Stockholm, info-
much that they feldom give a fine dinner when raw falmon is
not prefented on the table.’ This kind of provifion was a great
refource to us during our navigation of the rivers, as we were able
to preferve it a long time, and might eafily drefs it, at leaft as
often as we could find the neceffary trifling ingredients.
At the village Tolufis, otherwife named Juoxange, eight miles
from Kaulimpe, we changed boats and boatmen for the fecond
time. This voyage was {till more tempeftuous than the former.
Our men, like their predeceflors, wifhed to take advantage of the
wind,
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