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10 TRAVELS
amazing velocity of the current, feem to confpire to its deftruc-
tion. You cannot perform this paflage by fimply following the
ftream ; but the boat muft go with an accelerated quicknefs,
which fhould be at leaft double to that of the current. Two
boatmen, the moft active and robuft that can be found, mutt ufe
their utmoft exertions in rowing the whole time, in order that the
boat may overcome the force of the ftream, while one perfon is
ftationed at the helm to regulate its direction as circumftances
may require. The rapidity of this defcent is fuch, that you ac-
complifh an Englifh mile in the fpace of three or four minutes.
The man that manages the rudder can, with difficulty, fee the
rocks he muft keep clear of: he turns the head of the boat di-
rectly in the line of the rock he means to pafs, and when he is in
the very inftant of touching it, he fuddenly makes a fharp angle
and leaves it behind him. The trembling paffenger thinks that
he fhall fee the boat dafhed in a thoufand pieces, and the moment
after he is aftonifhed at his own exiftence. Add to all this, that
the waves rufh into the boat from all fides, and drench you to the
fkin; while, at other times, a billow will dafh over the boat from
fide to fide, and fcarcely touch you. It is a fituation which pre-
fents danger in fuch frightful fhapes, that you could hardly open
your eyes and refrain from trembling, though a perfon with the
greateft certainty fhould affure you that you would not fuffer any
harm. Several people, however, have perifhed in this place ; and
there were but two men in the village of Muonio who thought
themfelyes qualified to conduct the defcent: thefe were an old
man
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