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32 TRAVELS
As no rain had fallen in this country for fome time, the water was
fo fhallow, that the boat ran aground, and it became neceffary to
Jand in order to lighten it. The windings of the river were fo
frequent and fo contrary, that our progrefs was very tedious. Our
boatmen were obliged to undergo great labour in moving the boat
forward: fometimes they were compelled to get out and tow it;
at other times to lift it up and carry it on their fhoulders to a con-
fiderable diftance, where the bed of the river was nearly dry. In
addition to the great exertion and fatigue which thefe good people
had to bear, they were kept conftantly wet; and though their
toils were exceffive, they advanced but little in their journey, fince
the curvature of the river would often bring them back to a fmall
diftance from the place from which they had with fo much trouble
proceeded. This was mortifying and difcouraging in the extreme.
We ourfelves, who went on foot along the banks, had no better
reafon to be fatisfied with our condition. We had every where
to force our way through bufhes and briars, and it was with much
difficulty that we could go on at all, being frequently ftopped by
branches of trees, and having the veils torn away which covered
our faces, and fecured us from the attacks of the mufquetoes.
However, the fudden change of fcene, and the view of the coun-
try, together with the novelty of manners and appearance in the
inhabitants, made us in fome meafure amends for thefe hardfhips
and inconveniencies.
Before we arrived at Lappajervi, we halted for fome time on a
rock of confiderable fize, which was feparated by the river from
the
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