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34 TRAVELS
with their underwood, and fome firs, difperfed on the hill by the
river fide. All thefe feemed to vegetate with difficulty, as if de-
prived of their nourifhment by the mofs, and appeared withering
and ftunted. Some trees, indeed, which grow very near the
water, had the appearance of being in a flourifhing ftate, perhaps
owing to the moifture they derived from the river: but, in fhort,
this mofs appeared to be the royal plant, which ruled abfolute
over the vegetable kingdom of the country, and diftributed its
bounty and influence amongft a particular race of men and ani-
mals.
We arrived at Lappajervi in the evening, and our boatmen
were glad to take fome reft after their wearifome voyage. When
we arrived on the borders of the lake, we fell in with two Lap-
land fifhermen, who had returned from their day’s fifhing, and
were preparing to pafs the night there. We were guided to the
fpot where they were by a large column of fmoke, which mounted
into the air. On approaching them we found that they had be-
{meared their faces with tar, and covered their heads and fhoulders
with a cloth to protect themfelves from the mufquetoes. One of
them was fmoking tobacco, and the other was fecuring the fifth
they had taken from the depredations of the infects. Their
meagre and fqualid looks difcovered evident figns of wretchednefs,
They were covered from head to foot by {warms of mufquetoes,
from whofe ftings their clothing fcarcely fhielded them. They
were melting with heat, yet they durft not throw off their cover-
ing, much lefs remove from before the fire. Our arrival added
millions
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