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THROUGH LAPLAND. 59
We now prepared for our journcy to Kautokieno, under the
confolatory reflection that we fhould henceforth efcape the obfta-
cles and fatigues we had hitherto met with from the adverfe cur-
rents of the rivers. This was the firft time we had feen any river,
whofe waters were in their progrefs to lofe themfelves in the im-
menfe extent of the Frozen Ocean. If we had been oppofed by
fuch cataraéts as thofe of Muonio, it would, doubtlefs, have been
impoffible for us to have proceeded any farther. But happily the
dangers to be encountered in the cataracts of the river of Pepojo-
vaivi, were not unproportioned to the want of vigour and {kill of
the Laplanders, who were to be our attendants. Thofe feeble,
aukward, and helplefs beings, were embarraffed and at a ftand on
the leaft difficulty ; and every ftone to them feemed a mountain.
The itate of their boats was deplorable ; their oars were difpro-
portioned to one another, and without any regular form. They
were no other than {ticks of wood cut and hacked into fomething
like an oar, in the moft negligent manner. Lazinefs and ftupi-
dity were prominent in all the Laplanders did, mm all that apper-
tained to them. The only things that they were able actively to
perform, were to keep up an everlafting chatter, to fmoke their
pipes, to chew tobacco, and to drink brandy.
I2 CHAPTER
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