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62 TRAVELS
erratic but fixed Laplanders, or rather a Finnifh colony eftablifhed
in Lapland. Thefe inhabitants of Kintafari preferve all the ori-
ginal boldnefs of character, force and adtivity, by which the Fins
are diftinguifhed; whereas the unfettled and wandering Lap-
landers are remarkable for floth and dirt.
Having returned to the river Pepojovaivi, we fell down by that
ftream to Kautokeino, where it empties itfelf into the river Alten,
after a courfe of forty Englifh miles from the place where we fet
out. The river Pepojovaivi is every where intercepted by lakes,
or, more properly fpeaking, it often fpreads and makes lakes,
which, being fringed with birch and fir-trees, offered the moft
pleafing views, and rendered our voyage very. interefting and agree-
able. We were aftonifhed at the incredible quantity of fifhes
with which thofe lakes abound, and which leap every inftant to
catch infects above the furface of the water. Our Laplanders
themfelves were furprifed at their abundance, and agreed, on their
return, to come there and let down their torn and ragged nets.
The catara¢ts of the river Pepojovaivi were not at all confiderable,
nor were they in the leaft dangerous. Our good Finlanders, and
above all our pilot Simon of Kollare, would not have thought it
worth while to mention fuch a voyage: but it was a very arduous
undertaking for our Laplanders, who found themfelves under em-
barraflments at every turn. Being inured to the navigation of ca-
taracts, we could encounter their difficulties and dangers without
emotion, and were of courfe more fitted to extricate our company
out of any untoward circumftance than the Laplanders, who,
without
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