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4 TRAVELS
fprings were at four or five degrees of Celfius, which was a great
difference in comparifon of the lakes, which were at nineteen,
and of the atmofphere, which was at twenty-five. It was a
more delicious refrefment to us, than all the iced creams in the
great cities of the fouth of Europe to the moft confirmed epicure.
The river of Alten, after fpreading into feveral lakes, and again
contracting itfelf within its banks, which are here and there fringed
with trees, and confift fometimes of rocks and fometimes of bare
fand, precipitates itfelf all of a fudden from between two rocks
about forty feet in perpendicular height. There it forms a mag-
nificent cataract; and the agitated water fends up a cloud of va-
pour to the fkies, through which is feen a beautiful and majeftic
rainbow. ‘This cataraét, of courfe, mterrupted our navigation,
and our boats were drawn over the land for nearly the {pace of
an Englifh mile, to a place where the river again became paffable.
On the borders of this cafcade, the Laplanders, who accom-
panied us from Kautokeino, had a magazine of fifh drying in the
air. After exploring the beauties of the waterfall, we lighted up
a fire in this place, and had fome of thofe fifhes dreffed ; a part
boiled, and fome broiled. The Lapland fafhion of broiling, is by
fixing a fifh on a ftick, and then holding it to the fire.
After our repaft we purfued our voyage; and as we proceeded,
had a fine view, and took a drawing of a very beautiful cataract
made by the falls of a tributary ftream belonging to the Alten,
which defcends on the right bank of that river over a number of
thelving rocks, difpofed like fteps of ftairs, as if they were the
work
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