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102 TRAVELS
of this pleafure-ground ftood a wooden houfe, covered with turf,
and inhabited by a family of fixed Laplanders. I wifhed to pay
them a vifit; one of our guides, however, befought me not to go
there immediately by myfelf, but to fend him on before me ; be-
caufe, faid he, the family will perhaps be frightened at the fight
of a ftranger of fo different an appearance from their own. He
went into the houfe, but found nobody there: it was completely
deferted: the family had either gone on a fifhing excurfion, or
were in the mountains tending their rein-deer. The architeéts of
the houfes on thofe coafts, appear to have been of the fame fchool
with him who built the church of Mafi; though it might not
bear quite the fame proportion to that church, which our houfes
do to cathedrals. I cannot fay that we were very difcreet in our
vifit: we looked at, and fearched out every thing, even their
pockets : all was open and expofed ; for there are no locks in Lap-
land. We found not any article of curiofity, befides a box of
rofin. This juice iffues from the fir-tree, of which the Laplan-
ders make an ointment for drefling their wounds. We returned
with regret to our boats, and it was not without pain that we
bade adieu to fo charming a profpect, which bore a ftrking
refemblance to all that is moft romantic and delightful in the
natural {cenery of Switzerland.
There was not a breath of wind, and our boatmen were much
fatigued with rowing in fo great a heat. In order to give them
fome refpite, and to gratify our own curiofity, we vifited all the
Laplanders fettled on this coaft, who generally lived at the dif-
tance
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