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THROUGH LAPLAND. 119
cumftances of our return acrofs the defert. I fhall condué him
by rapid marches to Tornea, giving only the outline of our jour-
ney. In two boats we reafcended the river Alten againft all its
cataracts, and by dint of perfeverance, pufhed farther up than any
one had ever done before. The paflage along this river is as pictu-
refque as the imagination and heart of a painter can defire. Its banks
are fometimes beautifully decked with birch ; at others they prefent
a rugged and horrid afpect; perpendicular rocks, with here and
there deep chafms and precipices, fearful and inacceffible. In our
progrefs up the river, we met with a cafcade, rufhing perpendi-
cularly from a rock, which had a fttiking refemblance to the ruins
of the vaulted roof of a majeftic cathedral: at the foot of thefe
rocks is a {mall lake, and all around natural f{teps, as if cut in the
ftone, which gives to the whole the appearance of an ancient
temple. Here we faw a bear who had come to the river near this
place to flake his thirft, but who had no fooner fpied us than he
made off to the woods. A fox too came to drink at the fame place,
which was in front of our tent where we had paffed the night.
Farther onward we were ftruck with two cafcades oppofite to
each other, and both falling from the banks of the fame river,
Alten, which forms itfelf, at a {mall diftance, an infurmountable
cataract. The proximation of three fuch waterfalls is a circum-
{tance perfectly fingular in its kind; at leaft I have never any
where feen or heard of any thing fimilar; and had I merely be-
held it reprefented in a drawing, it would have appeared to me
the work of fancy, and altogether incredible. Here we made an
effort
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