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THROUGH LAPLAND. 121
covered us with fnow or fleet. For twelve hours we travelled
without intermiffion, except when we found it neceflary to take
fome refrefhment, before we regained the river Alten. The fear
of a change of the weather, or of a ftorm, accelerated our march :
nor did we indulge ourfelves in either long or frequent paufes,
during a journey that could not be lefs than fifty Englifh miles.
We arrived at laft at the fame place where we left the Laplan-
ders of Kautokeino with their boats; and who waited in order to
conduct us back to Kautokeino. We had fent a meffenger to
apprize them of our return, and to engage them to come there
to meet us againft that day. A northerly breeze faved our boat-
men the trouble of rowing againft the current. Some branches
of the birch-tree, at that feafon in full leaf, fet up in the poop,
fupplied the want of a fail.
Having arrived at Kautokeino, we were under the neceflity of
making another long journey on foot, as far as Enontekis, which
place we wifhed to take into our route. The way was not then
known to be practicable, never having been attempted before.
The mountains which feparate Enontekis from Kautokeino, are
not half fo high as thofe which divide Alten Gaard from Mafi ;
but we were deftined to encounter as great difficulties here as on
thofe of Norwegian Lapland. We had to ford rivers; we were
infulated by moraffes ; we were bewildered in deferts. Our good
Laplanders knew no more the place in which they were than we
ourfelves: their opinions on this point were divided ; and, but for
the direction of our compafs, we fhould have incurred the rifk of
Vor. II. R ; wandering
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