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From Tuf to Nvstoen (15-16 hrs.). A tolerable road ascends the
Grøndal, the valley of the Grøndøla opening on the N., after which a
bridle-path, passing several sæters, traverses the Merlcvanddal and crosses
the mountains, where reindeer are frequently seen, to Nystuen on the
Valders route (p. 96j.
Near Tuf the Hemsila forms the Rjukande Fos (‘smoking fall’).
All traces of cultivation now cease, and a few scattered sæters
replace the farms of the lower part of the valley. The road
ascends rapidly, and traverses a bleak and desolate, but grand and
imposing valley called the Mørkedal. This stage, being unusually
long and hilly, takes fully 3 hours.
20 Kil. (pay in the opposite direction for 30) Bjøberg (3320 ft.;
^Station; excellent headquarters for reindeer-stalking; pair of
antlers 8-10 kr.), the last station in the Hallingdal, is a solitary
gaard in a wild and dreary situation, at the foot of the
Hemsedals-fjeld. About 7 Kil. farther on we pass a column marking the
boundary between the ‘Stift’ of Christiania and that of Bergen, beyond
which we skirt the precipitous Kjølberg on the left and the
Eldre-vand on the right. To the N.E. rises the Jøkuleggen (6280 ft.).
The road, which is the highest in Norway, now soon reaches its
culminating point (3790 ft.), and then descends rapidly to —
15 Kil. (pay for 22 in either direction) Breistølen (Stution,
unpretending, but good), beyond which there is an almost
continuous and latterly steep descent, passing several waterfalls, to the
bridge of Børlaug on the Yalders route (p. 97). From Tuf over
the Hemsedalsfjeld to this point (about -40 Kil., for which 7-8hrs.
should be allowed in either direction) the scenery is very wild and
bleak, but the road now enters the highly picturesque valley of
the Leerdals-Elv. A little below the bridge is —
12 Kil. (pay for 15,’but in the opposite direction for 19) Hæg
(Hotel, well spoken of), see p. 97. •— From Hæg to Lærdalsøren,
(39 Kil.), see pp. 97-99.
Upper Hallingdal.
The Hallingdal in the narrower sense, or main valley
(Hoveddalføret), ascends to the W. from Viko (p. 84) to the wild and desolate
regions of the Halling skarven, the mountains forming the S. prolongation of
the Fillefjeld and the Hemsedalsfjeld, and across which paths lead N.W.
to the Sognefjord and S.W. to the Hardanger Fjord. With this district
are associated some of the most famous of Norwegian sagas, such as that
of the Villand family, and the inhabitants retain more of their ancient
characteristics than those of almost any other part of Norway. With the
exception of the higher mountains, however, the scenery is neither very
picturesque nor imposing.
About 2 Kil. above Yiko the road to the Upper Hallingdal
leaves the high-road to Lærdalseren, turning sharply to the left
immediately after crossing the bridge over the llemsil. About G Kil.
farther on Ellefsmoen is passed, beyond which we reach —
15 Kil. (from Viko) Nybgaarden i Torpe (1015 ft.) Near the
station stand within one wall the old timber-built Church of Torpe
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