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the smell of which pervades the whole place. Potatoes thrive here,
and a few stunted mountain-ashes and plum-trees succeed in
braving the long winters. Some of the gardens contain forget-me-not,
campion (Lychnis), and other flowers which in more southern
countries bloom in spring.
The Church is a tasteful building on a hill to the N. of the
town. The sacristy contains a votive picture dated 1661,
representing a married couple with two sons and two daughters, before
whom lie four dead children. Under the Tower, the ascent of
which is recommended, is a curious offertory-box. — The towrn
contains several large Shops, where interesting specimens of
Russian workmanship (Xaverskrukker, ‘bark-pouches’, etc.) among
other articles are sold. — Svend Foyn’s Oil Factory has been
removed to Mehavn (p. *265)).
If the traveller, instead of returning from Vadsø by the
direct steamer, proposes to return by the land-route via Nyborg,
Seida, and Guldholmen to the Tanafjord (a somewhat tedious and
expensive journey), and at Stangenæs (p. 266) to join the steamer
which brought him to Vadsø, he must make arrangements with
the captain and start by the local steamer (see Communicationer,
No. 298 A) 1 hr. after leaving the larger boat. The local steamer
steers to the V. through the Varangerfjord and passes the Lille
Vadse, Paddeby (where the first birches are seen), Finsnws, where
the Xordre Jacobs-Elr falls into the fjord, and the Klubnæs, a
promontory forming the extreme spur of the Klubbefjeld. The
vegetation is much richer here than at Vadsø, and improves the
farther we ascend the fjord. On the V\ side of the Klubnæs,
which was an ancient sacrificial station of the Lapps, lies —
Mortensnces (good quarters at Xordvi’s, the Landhandler’s).
The Lapps have a number of their curious ‘Gammer’, or
subterranean dwellings here, and in the neighbourhood are several of
their old burial-places, situated among heaps of stones
(StenUr). The other objects of interest are a Bautasten (Zcevdse Gcedge)
and some ancient stone rings. — The Storfjeld, which may be
ascended hence, commands a fine view\
Passing the church of Xetsseby (telegraph-station), the steamer
enters the Mæskefjord, the last bay on the N. side of the main
fjord. To the N. rises the Mceskehoug, a hill once regarded as sacred
(Mæske-varre; passe-aldo).
Nyborg (quarters at Pleyiris, the Landhandler’s, dear) lies 43 Kil.
(27 Engl. M.) to the Wl of Vadsø, near the end of the fjord. The
women here wTear a curious adornment on the back of their heads,
similar to that used by the Icelandic women, consisting of a piece
of wood (Finnish, fierrd) somewhat resembling a helmet, covered
with velvet or other stuff, and trimmed with coloured ribbons.
From this point travellers sometimes ascend the Mndevarre
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