Full resolution (JPEG) - On this page / på denna sida - II. The White City
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forwarding and receiving center between the colonies and
the motherland.
The population of the city declined in the course of
thirty years fronr one hundred to sixty-five thousand
inhabitants, who now live on memories of past
greatness. It has hardly a better connection with the outer
world than a Jutland country village of two hundred
souls; there is one mail train a day, which always ar-
rives two hours late. The Madrid morning papers
do not get to Cádiz until the following day and
subscribers seldom receive them - because of the lateness
of the mail train - before the morning of the third
day.
Life moves slowly in Cádiz. The city is like a deli-
cate old smile framed in white locks, a white bonnet
nodding behind an old-fashioned flower-pot. Over
much of the city you may amble as you do in the closed
villa streets back of Frederiksberg in Copenhagen,
where pensioned clergymen and teachers live in
retirement. There is the same peaceful light over the
houses, the same vegetative quiet everywhere. Here
there is no clanging, grinding, nerve-racking electric
tramway, no hoarse croaking of factory whistles, no
thundering trucks of labor. The constant tremble in
the air which is characteristic of a modern town, the
ceaseless vibration of pavement and walls, the
destructive hum of millions of noisy objects, the surging
crowds - these things are not for Cádiz, whose few
sounds can be heard far off like the sounds of a village
in the open country.
The Gaditano sits within his four walls and regards
his city as the liveliest in all Andalusia, so accustomed
is he to its quiet. Cafés and squares - these natural
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