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24 DAYS IN THE SUN
Giralda thirty miles away in the flat region surround-
ing the city; and the peasants who work the blood-red
earth in that part of the country point to it as they
say with luminous eyes: “Look, there is Seville!” The
tower flashes in the sunlight with its gayly colored tiles
of azulejos; and beneath it, hazy under the horizon,
lies the city celebrating. Some day in the future, when
they have saved up enough money, then—long live
joy! Long live happy Seville!
Up the narrow Guadalquivir, ships from Scandi-
navia, Germany, and England pick their course, crawl-
ing over sand banks with the waters of the stream and
warping their way between rich flat meadows. On
these meadows Gerion once grazed his celestial flocks,
but he was obliged to consign them after a few days
to the Elysian fields because too long a sojourn on our
lowly sphere would have made them burst with fat.
These meadows are now the property of the great
cattle-breeding establishments which supply the many
arenas of Spain; wild bulls with mighty horns graze on
them. All tourists give this region a wide berth, and
the only contact these animals have with human beings
is when a horseman with a long pointed lance rides in
among them in order to test their thirst for blood. He
makes off as fast as he came, and the animals will gore
the grassy ground in their impotent rage. Whenever a
ship passes, they stalk down to the shore, stand still
and bellow their challenge to the vessel. The jovial
seamen—ordinarily so ready for fun—find no merri-
ment in this. Each man will turn aside, count up his
earnings in his own mind, and turn his eyes to La
Giralda.
Thousands of foreigners who come here from all the
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