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26 DAYS IN THE SUN
day they are the patron saints of Seville and are wor-
shiped with that austere awe which men always accord
to that which is inaccessible to them.
The Mother of God has now assumed the obliga-
tions of the Sun-god in addition to all her other duties,
and of all the thirty incarnations in which she appears
at the present day, none is closer to the heart of the
Sevillano than La Virgen de la Aurora, the Madonna
of the Early Dawn. The Sevillano prefers not to go
to bed before her mass has been rung to announce a
new day.
Seville holds few reminders of its Roman period:
some slight remnants of city walls and baths; an aque-
duct, which has been put into operation again; old
coins, which may be gathered by the handful wherever
the plow has drawn a furrow—as in all the places in
which the Romans once lived. Then there is the
splendid amphitheater Italica, a genuine Italian ruin
with great blocks of marble strewn about, with golden
maidenhair shuddering in the subterranean crypts, and
agile lizards flitting through every crevice in the
masonry. The festive mood of those old times has re-
mained, that eternal cheerfulness which made this a
charming summer resort for jaded pleasure-seekers
even in the days of ancient Rome.
Nor did joy die of starvation during the terms in
which the city served as the royal camp of the Vandals,
and later of the Goths. Only, with the oncoming of
Moorish rule, a new era set in for Andalusia, in agri-
culture and industry, in art and science—all of which
flourished. A great irrigation system criss-crossed the
country with meshes as fine and as effective as the veins
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