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SEVILLE 29
charms extolled to her face, but she receives such rude-
ness by no means ill. The wretched poor lap up the
splendor of wealth with an undisguised innocence in
which there is as-yet no trace of proletarian hatred.
But they do not wallow in the dust before it; it has no
power overthem. This perhaps is the reason why they
do not hate it.
The Sevillano lacks curiosity about all useful things.
But his mind is open enough for whatever may divert
and distract him, and the flow of human beings through
streets and squares produces a dual impression of care-
less loafing and restless bustle. Thousands of strangers
come to Seville every year; but the city still laughs with
childish amusement at each one. Wherever a for-
eigner walks, the natives, rich and poor alike, stand in
line, shouting harmless pleasantries to each other,
uttering fragments of English or German to the for-
eigner’s face, even rudely jostling him if they can.
No one is too insignificant and rarely is any one so
dignified as not to take part in this popular sport.
If you enter a shop, it will be filled at once with
busybodies, and those who cannot force their way in
will stand about in the street. The tradesmen—if a
Sevillian shopkeeper may be dignified by this name—
will at once proceed to question the foreigner in the
interest of the onlookers; his nationality, how much
money he has, the purpose of his journey. Only after
reminding him repeatedly can you have any service.
“What a bunch of savages!” I once said to a book-
seller as I pointed to the curious crowd. “Somos ast;
that’s the way we are,” was his somewhat brusque
answer.
And why criticize? They crowd about not to annoy
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