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CORDOBA 53
far as possible, so that the tips touch the ground.
Sometimes a collar has been sewn on one hem of the
four-cornered blanket, which is provided with a hook
to fasten it about the neck like a rudimentary cloak.
Every one smokes; and whoever rolls a cigarette for
himself first offers it to every one in the compartment.
All are restless—like eight-year-old boys. They toss
from side to side and take every position except sitting
in their places. They lean far out of the windows, lie
on the tops of the benches, crawl over partitions from
one compartment to another; talk to themselves or
emit hollow bellowings of contentment. Ear-splitting
conversations are carried on from one end of the car
to the other. Like all southerners, they have power-
ful lungs and are talking chiefly of money; but the sums
mentioned are not to be taken seriously.
I can tell by their clothes and their skins that some
are workers from the city or country, while others are
petty officials and tradesmen, or teachers. Otherwise,
they are marked by no differences of language or man-
ner; the man in working clothes will conduct himself
with as much refinement as the gentleman. There is no
relationship of inferior or superior in their attitude
toward each other; they all move on the same familiar
level. They show something approaching reserve with
regard to us only.
An old woman in rags, carrying many bundles,
wishes to leave the car at a small provincial station.
A well-dressed gentleman gathers all her things next
to the door of the compartment, then gets out him-
self and takes out her bundles one after the other.
Finally he takes her in his arms, lifts her out and
carries her for a few steps before he sets her down,
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