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TANGIERS 115
gorgeousness of their raiment, and in the dazzling
cleanliness of their outer garments, in their outward
behavior and in their aristocratic bearing. You will
look in vain in the streets of Tangiers for that “ani-
mal-like simplicity” and that frank and open conversa-
tion that is so characteristic of the cities of southern
Europe; a lady can walk alone through these streets
without hearing rude observations spoken behind her
back or witnessing any sight that might cause her to
blush. The Moors are well acquainted with the forms
of good breeding, and observe them furthermore; for
the rest, however, they have got far beyond these
forms. They have freed themselves from the contents
and requirements of these forms, because they had be-
come a burden; and their feeling them a burden was
due to the fact that they themselves had become de-
generated and fatigued.
In their manners and their deeds they remind one
vividly of a late scion of some great family. They are
extremely blasé and incapable of feeling interest or
compassion; in fact, of being carried away by any emo-
tion. In southern Europe, the presence of a stranger
may be the cause of a riot, yet, though strangers are
far less frequent in Morocco than in some other
regions, the Moor does not dignify him with even a
fraction of a glance.
As for nerves, the Moor seems to have none; nor
has he any evident desire for life and activity. He
does as little as possible, hates to talk to you, prefers
to walk by himself; he will stand leaning against a
wall for hours, staring absent-mindedly in front of him
without budging and without permitting any sound to
awaken him; he will sit with his feet resting in the
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