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192 DAYS IN THE SUN
world. Everything Spanish is superlative. And
Andalusia in turn is the first province in all of Spain,
and the Vega the backbone of all Andalusia. In the
privacy of his own mind each of the fellows I talked to
regarded himself as the foremost man in the whole
country. “If I wanted to—” is a universal Spanish
expression, always accompanied by large gestures.
They are children, magniloquent braggarts; but they
are also splendid—a peculiar mixture of the Cid and
Don Quixote.
Small wooden bridges led over the aqueduct. At the
end of each bridge there was a gate with a niche and
in the niche stood an oil-lamp with a Madonna. Over
the gate was the name of the farmyard to which it
led: “The Farm of the Immaculate Conception,” “The
Farm of the Annunciation,” “The Farm of the Pas-
sion and Death of Christ.’ The white farm-houses
were two stories high and had no windows. ‘The
upper story consisted of a roof only, resting on white
pillars. The deep blue sky shone on the other side of
the second story, and ears of maize as well as Span-
ish peppers were hanging out to dry in great sheaves.
It was the yellowest yellow and the reddest red! The
colors were further intensified by the powerful sun-
light that imparted a bluish tint to the whitewashed
walls.
The path was crossed by a stream. I took off shoes
and stockings and waded to the other side. A band
of men and women approached me from the village, on
their way to early mass in the cathedral. As I was
again putting on my shoes and stockings, they reached
the water. The men walked into the water, one by
one, took their places under the low bank and bended
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