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266 OUTHIER’S JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH,
fea which fome of us manifefted. It is true, the expence of travelling by land was not
confiderable. Coaches made entirely of wood, lined with fuftian, and with common
glafs inftead of plate, coft no more than five hundred livres a-piece: each horfe in
Sweden is paid for after the rate of eight fous for a mile, which is equal to two French
leagues, and in this manner we travelled ; this formed almoft all our expence.
Wednefday the fixth, at eight o’clock in the morning, we fet off in the fecond coach,
Mefirs. Camus, Le Monniér, Herbelot, and myfelf ; we went again to take leave of the
ambaflador, and left Stockholm at nine o’clock. We changed horfes at Rotebron, two
miles off, that is to fay, nearly four French leagues : the Swedifh mile contains eighteen
thoufand Swedifh ells, each ell one foot ten inches of French meafure. From Rotebron
to Maeftrad one mile and three quarters; from Maeftrad to Alfik one mile and three
quarters: thefe are the names of the places where we changed horfes. From Alfik is
one mile and a half to Upfal, where we arrived at ten o’clock at night.
It is feven miles from Stockholm to Upfal, through a country filled with rocks and
{mall hills covered with firs, among many branches or finuofities made by the river of
Stockholm. We pafled a river to the north of Alfik in a flat boat ; and:a little before
our arrival at Upfal we entered a beautiful wood of large firs, traverfed by a road in a
{traight line.
The roads from Stockholm to Upfal, and even as far as Torneo, are fine, well kept,
and marked at every quarter of a mile by a wooden poft, properly fhaped and painted _
red, on which is marked the number of miles and quarter of miles from Stockholin.
Some ancient pofts are found as well, or rather pillars of ftones; but within a few years
the roads have been meafured by the pole, and fince wooden pofts have been placed,
Frequently along thefe roads gates are met with, which fhut in a moft ingenious manner.
M. de Maupertuis foon after arrived with Mefirs. Clairaut and Celfius: On the
feventh we all went together to fee the governor of Upfal, who detained us to dinner,
At the end of the repaftywhite wine, in which orange and fugar were mixed, was handed
round ina large glafs; every one drank from the fame glils, which went round feveral
times, firft to the health of the governor and his lady, and afterwards other toafts. After
dinner we went to fee the great church, which is the cathedral, the univerfity, and the
garden of the caftle; and all of us fupped with M. Celfius.
The city of Upfal is rather large, moft of its f{treets are perfectly ftraight. Except
the cathedral and feven or eight houfes, which are of {tone, all the other buildings are
of wood, covered with birch-bark, and turf upon that: there is only the houfes of the
governor and the archbifhop which are covered with birch-bark without turf; and
throughout the remainder of the road towards the north they are as well without turf.
On an eminence to the fouth of the city the caftle ftands in ruins, but the garden is yet
handfome. Looking on the town from the caftle, it has the appearance of a large gar-
den, the {treets of which, in ftraight lines, fufficiently refemble the alleys, and the houfes
covered with turf the fquares. A river paffes through the city, the water of which is
red. Over this river there are two bridges, fufpended to beams arching from one fide
of the river to the other.
The cathedral is rather large, but ill paved: there is an excellent choir, a fine altar,
with a great crucifix, and a very handfome pulpit: in the facrifty are ornaments fufli-
ciently rich, among others a fuit of black for Good Friday ; two chalices, one of which
is of gold ; wood of the real crofs on a great crofs of filver gilt. In a chapel of the
cathedral the tomb of St. Eric, King of Sweden, is feen, a martyr: both the tomb and
the relics are greatly neglected.
In the univerfity are four auditories, or a ae for teaching : there is a cabinet
of
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