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ACCOUNT OF DANISH LAPLAND BY LEEMS. 387
“women, either intent on a journey, or occupied in keeping the rein-deer by night, make
ufe of, thefe obfervations occur: they put on a certain kind of covering which reaches
from the upper part of it to the neck or chin; but from the lower is {tretched over part
of the breaft, of the arms and back. This kind of covering is faftened by no buttons
or ribbands, as being on each fide entire and fitting ; it is generally made up of red,
green, or blue cloth ker/ey, adorned at the lower part with a border of cloth of a colour
different from the hocd itfelf. When they have put on this fort of covering, they place
a high hood on their head, which rifes broad in the fhape of a crown, being fpread out
in the upper part of it. Below, along the left fide, is a felvedge of cloth, of a different
colour from the hood ; and fuch as mean to furpafs others in dreis, make ufe of a bandage
inftead of the felvedge, made up of gold and counterfeit filver, from which a gilt filver
button is pendent. Men as well as women wear tunics and cloaks. The tunics are
made from the dreffed fkins of fheep, refembling the tunics of men, except that behind
they fall into a variety of folds, lie clofer about the breaft, and are longer ; for they
come down to the hams, when thofe of the men come only as far as the knees. And as
the tunics of fheep fkin ferve the men inftead of fhirts, fo women make ufe of no other
covering than tunics of this kind, made from the unfhorn fkins of the fheep, with the
fhaggy part turned infide. ‘The outward garment of the women, made of badmel, ker-
Jey, or any other cloth, is like the cloaks of men in almoft every particular, with thefe
few exceptions: the men’s come but to the knees, the women’s to the hams; the men’s
are ornamented with a ftiff collar, the women wear none. ‘The tunics of women, made
of fheep fkins, have a ftiff collar, reaching over the ears and neck; which cloaks, made
of cloth Badmel, have not, as juft mentioned, and which when worn leave the neck above
the tunic expofed. Among the women there is alfo a certain kind of cloak in ule,
called Barve, made of kerfey, or fome other common kind of cloth ; but in this differ-
ing from others, that it is not entire from the head to the ancles, but cut and fewn
again about the belly, and drawn into folds. The cloaks of women made up from the
ikins of rein-deer; or from their young, differ only in form from the men’s; that as
thefe come down to the ancles, whereas the men’s reach but to the knees.
The gloves of women agree in fhape with thofe of the men; thofe who are defirous
of ornament and elegance have hairy gloves of a very white colour, made from the fkin
taken from the feet of the white rein-deer, and ornamented on the outfide with varie-
gated fhreds of a different cloth. And, as the men wear breeches made of cloth, Ker/ey,
or of fome other fort, or fkin taken from the feet of the rein-deer, the hairy part being
turned outfide, from drefled fkins or leather, fo the women wear them, yet they are
very feldom made of leather, but in every other refpect they are like the men’s. The
fhoes of the men and women only differ, that as the foles of men’s fhoes are made of
the fkin which is taken from the ikull of the rein-deer, but the upper part and latchets
from the feet of the faid animal, fo the women’s are made up entirely from the fkin
from the legs of the rein-deer. Thofe who with to be diftinguifhed among the moune
taineers have fhoes covered with hair of a white colour, from the fkins which are taken
from the feet of the white rein-deer. ‘The girdles of the women are of leather, or fome-
times of cloth, covered on every fide with tin plates; under the girdle is feen a butten
of a larger fize, made of mountain-trap from which fome rings of the fame metal for
ornament and elegance are hung. Women of condition wear filver girdles. Handker-
chiefs, with which the women ornament their necks, are either of {tamped linen of Ruf.
fia, or of coloured linen, which is vulgarly called in taverns Cattun ; or of common
white linen, a covering of which fpread over the cloak extends over the fhoulders and
breaft. ‘The aprons of the women are narrow, made from the ftamped linen of
2° D2 Ruffia,
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