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RIESBECK’S TRAVELS THROUGH GERMANY. 279
LETTER LXIX.
Amfterdam.
I HAD intended to go from Cologne to Holland by the Rhine, and promifed myfelf
great pleafure from the journey, but the King of Pruffia forbad the fport ; he fuffers no-
body to go by water through the territory of Cleves, in order not to hurt his pofts by
land, which are formed. You are obliged to take the pofts on the frontiers, or at leaft
to pay certain taxes, if you havea carriage of yourown. ‘ This,” faid I to fome failors
of Rotterdam who told me of it, ‘ this,” faid I, “‘ is again{t the law of nature, again{t
the law of nations, again{t the law of hofpitality, and againft all the laws in the world.’’
* We have known that,” anfwered they, ‘* long ago.”
As being prevented from going by water, I determined to fee as much of the country
as was poflible by land, and for this purpofe partly on horfeback, partly on foot, and
partly in the carriages of the country, I wandered over the feveral parts of Weftphalia
belonging to the King of Pruffia and the elector Palatine, entirely indifferent where the
vifit fhall carry me, and following only the direétion of my nofe.
The reward however was well worth the trouble I took for it, for the degree of cul-
tivation and riches far exceeded all ideas [had formed of them, and quite aftonifhed me..
All the cities and villages abounded in tradefpeople. Muhlheim, Elberfeld, Solingen,
Sorft, Ham, Duifburg, Meurs, Wefel, Cleve, and fome other cities have capital manu-
factures inthem. ‘They makea great number of linens and woollens, fupply almoft all
the country of the Upper Rhine, Suabia, and Franconia, with white threads : they have-
befides manufactures of handkerchiefs, filks, and cottons; they prepare fteel and iron
at Solingen, better than in any other part of Europe, England alone excepted. Their
commerce extends all over the Netherlands, part of Franconia, and the whole empire.
This wonderful induftry, united to the natural fertility of the country, renders this
one of the richeft, and moft remarkable parts of Germany ; a gentle adminiftration,
and a fecurity again{t defpotifm, derived from the ftates of the country, contribute not a
little to the happinefs which obtains. ‘The inhabitants are cheerful, hofpitable, and well
mannered ; they may be quoted as a new inftance to be added to the numberlefs ones
t have already given, of the little influence which religion has over the civil condition of
men, when not attended with other local circumftances. Though the proteftants in this
circle are far from being fo enlightened, or fo tolerant, as thofe of their perfuafions in
other countries, and though they are much more addicted to fenfual enjoyments than
their brethren of other places, they are, notwithftanding, the moft indultrious people,
and the beft fubjeéts that can be found ;. nor does the bigotry of the catholics hurt the
manufaéture and agriculture of the country, their education only direéting it to fuch ob-.
jects, as have no connection with manners, or civil fociety. Every thing therefore in
my opinion depends upon the habits amidft the which men growup. When once in-
duftry is habitual to a people, the moft abject fuperttitions will have no influence on
their temporal felicity ; the priefts themfelves will render their fermons conformable to
the manners of the country, nor will the monkifh theorifts themfelves be able to overturn
them. There are as many legends in this country, as in Cologne, nor are the people
lefs fond of proceflions and pilgrimages, and yet they are infinitely more induftrious,
more frugal, and more wealthy than at Cologne. It is neither therefore the fault of the
religion, or fuperftition, but of the government alone, that the people of Cologne are
fo debauched, and that the priefts of the place openly recommend debauchery, as a loofe
education has made their religion prejudical to them. The corporation fyftem, which
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