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474 FORTIA’S TRAVELS IN SWEDEN.
whence you .have a fine profpeét, but which the bad weather that reigned while we
were there prevented our enjoying. Adjoining to the principal building is a tolerably
large kitchen garden with fome {mall hot houfes, at the extremity of which is a palif-
fade, through which you have a delightful view of the river; in this fpot it is amazing-
ly wide, and more refembles a lake ftudded with iflands than a river. On the fide of
the manfion, in a {mall pavillion, we faw a collection of three or four hundred birds
ftuffed, and a pretty apartment of fhells. The catalogue of thefe two collections is
printed, but the proprietor is daily making additions to them. In the fame apartment
is a library of books relative to natural hiftory ; in the billiard-room on the fide fome
impaled animals, fuch as the fox, the glutton, a white fox, another white and grey, a
wild cat ofa large fize called a lynx, &c.
We cannot fpeak too highly of the kindnefs of Mr. Grill, at whofe houfe we lived,
and with difficulty were fuffered to lodge at the inn at which we arrived. He fhewed
us every thing himfelf with the greateft politenefs, and explained every thing with the
utmoft civility. Willingly would we have had to fpeak as favourably of him with re-
gard to his collection of medals at Stockholm: but after giving a formal promife to
fhew us them he put us off from one day to another, and finally gave for anfwer that
they were packed up and could not be fhewn. This brings to memory the expreflion
fo well known—he /hewed himfelf a brave man fuch a day—and proves that politenefs
may fometimes be ephemeral.
From Sudersfors to Upfal is feven miles and a quarter, by Vfre, Lebu, and Heug/ta.
You travel almoft wholly on the eftate of Mr. Grill for the firft ftage, tracing back the
road by which you came for about three quarters of a mile; afterwards you turn to
the right, and having gone further three quarters of a mile you find yourfelf again on
the high road to Upfal. Half a mile before you reach Yfre you pafs over a bridge
acrofs a river, and a quarter of a mile beyond another, the parapets of which are of
iron; from this you have the profpect of a number of charming cafcades. In order to
reach the poft-houfe you leave the high road on the left, and join it again by a crofs
road. Onthis ftage you notice one of the largeft plains in Sweden: thence to Upfal
we traverfed plains and a well cultivated country ; a quarter of a mile before you ar-
rive there you pafs by the fide of the church of Old Upfal, celebrated in the days of.
pagani{m, but at prefent abandoned. We faw afterwards feveral heaps of ftones, under
which, according to tradition, fome ancient kings lie buried.
Cuap. XJI.—Up/al.—The Cathedral.—Univerfity.—Cabinets.—Inftructions for traverf-
ing the Alps of Lapland.
UPSAL, formerly the capital of Sweden, at prefent of Upland, is a very fmall city,
and contains fearcely more than four thoufand inhabitants, exclufive of the ftudents,
the number of which, as is the cafe of all univerfities, occafionally differs, but which
may be generally eftimated at five hundred at leaft. From the caftle, a tolerably large
but irregular building, you have a very fine view of the town and country ; and thence
it is that you are enabled to form the beft eftimate ofits extent*. A river runs through
it which has a communication with lake Mceler, and which is of benefit to the very tri-
flifig commerce carried on by the town. Notwithftanding the inconfiderablenefs of its
trade, if the extent of the city be regarded, it is very well inhabited, for independent of
thofe, who from their fituations are obliged to refide here, fuch as the Governor, and
* We didnot notice by the fide of the gates the tun full of water, which is defcribed by the Dutch
traveller (Le Voyageur Hollandais).
the
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