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554 FORTIA’S TRAVELS IN SWEDEN.

has a confiderable forge which employs two hammers. Yo Harmaby, one mile and a
half, fands and woods and rocks, ‘lo Tro/fa, one and a half mile; at the beginning
of this {tage you meet the road from Stockholm to Grifleham, and at length enter a
more direct road: this {tage is a bad one, has a number of rifings and defcents in it,
and affords profpeéts of nothing but fands and woods and rocks. To Gri/leham three
quarters of a mile; upon leaving the poft-houfe you crofs a very narrow arm of the
fea which {tretches deep in fhore, inaboat (the charge exceedingly {mall,) Grifleham
is badly placed on the map of the roads, it ought to be more towards the north.

Here it is that paflengers embark for the ifland of Aland; the boatmen employed for
the occafion are regiftered marines ; but as they live at their own homes, frequently at
great diftances from the fhore, you have to fend before to give them feveral hours no-
tice unlefs you prefer waiting. On embarkation you pay a duty of four fchillings each
perfon. The paflage over. to Ekereu, in the ifland of Aland, is faid to be feven miles,
for our part we do not think it fix: we were five hours within ten minutes in crofling: we
have been aflured that the paflage has been made in two hours, but fuch an event muit be
very uncommon ; the boatshavenodecks; if a {mall boat be taken the chargeistwo rix-dol-
lars, if a larger, three, (we advife the latter.) In the winter time, that is to fay from Oétober
14, to April 14, the charge is double. alfa rix-dollar is given to the men to drink.
Provided you embark with the courier on Wednefday or Saturday morning, you crofs
for atrifle; the ftipulated fare being hung up in the poft-houfe you cannot be miftaken
as to what you have to pay. The worft periods to pafs are the beginning of autumn and
{pring, but particularly the latter. The ifland of Aland as well as thofe before met with,
are dependencies of the government of Finland. In thefe Fadenhielm notes are current
(fo called from the perfon by whom they are figned); thefe notes were iflued during
the war of 1788; they are current in Finland alone, where they are obligatory; there
was a difcount upon them when exchanged again{t thofe of Rik/ens, of from twelve to
thirteen per cent. and confequently a lofs of twenty-five per cent. or thereabouts, when
exchanged againft bank notes: but, as is juft, thefe notes are received by the collectors
of the taxes, and are confequently ufed by the Fins for payment of their impofts. It
has been in contemplation to annihilate them entirely, an object much to be
defired *.

From Ekereu to Marby is feven eighths of a mile. Here you leave your horfes and
crofs an arm of the fea in an oared boat; the fea here is about a quarter of a mile
over; provided you take with you a very light carriage fuch as are generally ufed in
the country the wheels are not taken off, if not it will be neceflary to take them off, and
even to have two boats fhould it be heavy and carry much luggage; you are from twenty
to twenty-five minutes in crofling. If on foot, on horfeback, or with a light carriage,
you pay three dollars ; four for a carriage with four wheels, and eight for two boats.
The little ifland of Ekereu is very fandy; has a quantity of foreft and rocky ground,
fome few corn-fields, and appeared to us tolerably well peopled. ‘The ifland of Aland,
upon which we landed is about three miles in breadth, from eaft to weft, and fomewhat
more in length. It is pretty well peopled although it has no towns; is very woody, has
abundance of rock, but lefs fand than the preceding. In it blocks of red granite,
are feen on every fide; it is indented by many arms of the fea which form numerous
gulphs, and mutt neceflarily render a direct communication difficult at certain feafons of

* In 1793, the Regent ordered them to be paid. Count M. had iffued a number of forged ones; but
his property was {equeftrated for the payment of them, himfelf degraded from his rank, and banifhed the
kingdom,

12 the

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