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COXE’S TRAVELS IN RUSSIA, 573
nufadiures, but carries on fome commerce with the Ukraine, Dantzic, and Riga. The
principal articles of trade are flax, hemp, honey, wax, hides, hogs’ briftles, mafts,
planks, and Siberian furs.
The Dnieper rifes in the foreft of Volkonfki, near the fource of the Volga, about
one hundred miles from Smolenfko, pafles by Smolen{ko and Mohilefy feparates the
Ukraine from Poland, flows by Kiof, and falls into the Black-fea between Otchakof
and Kinburn. By the acquifition of the province of Mohilef, the whole courfe is now
included within the Ruffian territories. It begins to be navigable at a little diftance
above Smolenfko ; but in fome feafons of the year is fo fhallow near the town, that the
goods mutt be tranfported on rafts and {mall flat-bottomed boats.
Having occafion for a new paflport and an order for horfes, we called upon the go-
vernor, in company with a Ruffian ftudent, who fpoke Latin, for our interpreter. The
governor being at church, we repaired to the cathedral, and waited until the conclufion
of divine fervice. The cathedral is a ftately building, erected on the fpot where for-
merly ftood the palace of the antient Dukes of Smoleniko. | The infide walls are
covered with coarfe paintings reprefenting our Saviour, the Virgin, and a variety of
Saints, which abound in the Greek calendar. The fhrine, or fanduary, into which
only the priefts are admitted, is feparated from the body of the church by a fcreen with.
folding doors, and ornamented with twifted pillars of the Corinthian order, richly
carved and gilded.
The worfhip feemed to confift of innumerable ceremonies: the people crofled .
themfelves without ceafing, bowed towards the fhrine and to each other, and even
touched the ground with their heads. The Bifhop of Smolenfko performed the fervice 3,
he was a venerable figure, with white flowing hair and long beard; he was drefled
in rich epifcopal robes, and had a crown on his head. ‘The folding doors were occa-
fionally opened, and clofed with great pomp and folemnity whenever the Bifhop re-,
tired within, or came forth to blefs the people. At the conclufion of the fervice, the
doors being thrown open, the Bifhop advanced with a chandelier in each hand, one
containing three, and the other two lighted candles, which he repeatedly crofled over
each other in different directions ; and then waving them towards the congregation,
concluded with a final benediction. ‘Thefe chandeliers, as I am informed, are fym-
bolical ; one alludes to the Trinity, and the other to the two natures of Chrift.
At the end of the fervice we prefented ourfelves to the Governor, who, to our fur-
prize, received us with an air of coldnefs, which made fuch an impreffion on our in-
terpreter that he could not utter a fingle word. At length a gentleman in. the Gover-
nor’s train accofted us in I’vench, and inquired our bufinefs. Informing him that we
were Englifh gentlemen wno defired a paflport, and an order for horfes, he told us.
with a fmile, that the plainnefs of our drefles had raifed a fufpicion of our being tradef-
men; but he was not ignorant that Englifh gentlemen feldom wore lace or fwords on.
a journey ; an intimation which recalled to our recollection the advice of our Polifh
friend at Minfk. He then whifpered the Governor, who inftantly aflumed an appear-
ance of complacency, and teftified an intention of complying with our requelt.
This matter being adjufted, the Bifhop joined the company ;. he had laid afide the
coftly garments in which he performed the fervice, and was dreffed in a long black
robe, around black cap, and veil. He addrefled us in Latin, and invited us to his
houfe. He led the way; and we followed with the reft of the company to a commo-
dious wooden building adjoining to the cathedral. On entering the apartment, the
Governor and Ruffian gentleman kifled his hand with great marks of refpect. After.
defiring all the company to fit, he diftinguifhed us by particular attention ; obfervings.
with
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